Joseph Phineas Davis Journal – Cuzco May 26, 1864 to July 29, 1864, 1864-05-29-1864-07-29

May 26th 1864. ThursdayLeft Lima in the steamer Bolivia for Islay. This steamer is one of the oldest on the line and runs at a crawling speed. It is however rather commodious. The table is neither good or bad. Stopped in Callao and paid Colville for papers be up to date. Felt a little inclined to be sick on board. Am very bilious. 27th. FridayTook a cup of coffee that made sick for a few moments. Stopped at Tambo Moro in afternoon also at Pisco. Saw nothing of the Spanish vessel. Sr. Dias came on board at Pisca – being Captain of that port. May 28th. SaturdaySailing quietly along with nothing to interrupt the monotony. At about midday, we stopped by the Govt. transport Quito for news. The Quito has just been brought from the P.S.N. Co. for 500.000. She is a new vessel and a very fast one. She is built or arranged partly on the American plan – pilot house forward & state rooms on deck. She has a four model but is rather narrow for a comfortable sea boat. 29th Sunday.Stopped at Chala. Horrible little town with a horrible little port, if it can be given such a name. The town is jammed into the sea by the surrounding hills. 30th Monday.Stopped at Quilca. The inlet used for landing with boats is at some distance to the north of the town which last is situated at the mouth of the Arequifa river. The shore all along this part of the coast is abrupt and hilly & barren. It has not those green valleys opening out to the sea – as has the coast to the north. The rivers are few and come down through narrow gorges. The hills are covered with a thin layer of white substance that looks like snow. If it were not for the temperature one would suppose there had been a light snow storm. The night before arrived at Islay – at 2 or 3 o’clock P.M. Islay has very little harbor still the water appears to be pretty still. Went on shore and put up at the Hotel Francais where one has a good dinner and a comfortable bed. The shore here as at the north is abrupt and the town is situated on the slope of a rocky hill at some elevation above the sea. There is a little square mole – which however seems to answer all purposes and from which you ascend to the town by a steep zigzag roadway. The houses are mostly wooden frame houses very lightly built. Water is brought to the town from distance springs and there is a rather pretentious fountain in the plaza. The Church is the worst edifice of the kind I ever saw – even in Peru – it is a plain wooden building of fearful shape that would not compare either in looks or stability with a very poor beam of a New England farmer. The office of the steamer is the best building that I saw in town. Hired a guide & horses to take us to Arequifa – and an Arciso to take our baggage paying 15 dollars apiece for horses & 6 for mules.31st TuesdayStarted from Islay at about 11 A.M. Weather misty. The cloud immediately behind Islay – passes over clayey hills & through clayey valleys. When we got dome league or more on our journey it began to rain quite hard – and in descending a steep hill side to the guebrada bellone it was so slippery that the horses could hardly creep along. We were obliged to get off and lead them. We found indian huts scattered along the road for the first few leagues but they soon began to be met at longer intervals and at last none were to be seen. At about 7 leagues from Islay the hills are passed and a wide sandy desert entered upon at the entrance of the desert is a Tambo – but we made no stop. Just before arriving here we were overtaken by 3 other travelers with whom made acquaintance and pursued on journey. The pampa appears to descend with an easy slope towards the hills of Arequipa – but I suspect that it really is about level. My barometer noted very little change in height. At about 4, we saw snow covered peak of the Arequipa volcano (the smisli) at whose base is situated the city. Also the Tambo in the centre of the desert that was to terminate our days’ journey could just be distinguished in the distance. We concluded to leave the road or track and make a straight cut for this Tambo. At about 6 P.M. when we were within a league or two of the Tambo a heavy mist came down closing over us in a minute and obscured every land mark that guided us on our way. We were out of the road and had only the wind to direct us. We soon were lost but at last struck the road. This we also lost several times as it grew darker and began to anticipate a night in the desert as we knew if we stopped where we were that in the morning we could soon reach the Tambo. However we caught sight of the light of the Tambo and arrived at about 7 ordered a good chupe with eggs – after eating which we crawled into bed and had a sound nights’ sleep. The Tambo is kept by an Englishman – and is a very superior affair. It is a wooden building lightly made – furnished good beds and good eating. This Englishman must be a philanthropist. The place is called “La Tambode la Joya: It is at about 13 leagues from Island and 18 from Arequipa. June 1st 1864 Wednesday.The guide called us at about 4 to start on our journey. The morning was clear but cold. At about 8 ½ we arrived at another Tambo (de la Jarra) situated at the base of the hills that wall in Arequipa from the desert and at a distance of 4 league from la Joya. There was nothing to eat here but chickens and as we had not time to have these cooked – we continued on. At this point the road enters the hills and follows up a winding valley which appears to be the dry bed of a river which never was a torrent as shown by the immense boulders that have been brought down the guebrada is hemmed in on either side by ranges of hills formed of a volcanic stone (a trachytic conglomerate) and covered at points with fine cinders. At 6 leagues from La Jarra we encountered another Tambo where we made a sort of breakfast of chupe made with dried meat. From this tambo begins a series of steep ascents & descents – You climb up to go down. The road to this point has been good and might readily be made serviceable for carts. The rest of the way to Tingo – it is steep & filled with stones so that a horse has to pick his way along. It could not be converted into a wagon road with a great expense both on account of the deep cutting as required and the soft cinders & sand that at many points form the surface but nevertheless its present condition is a crying shape to the people of Arequipa. At a small expense it might be cleared of loose stones and at some points widened. It is now as nature made it. At the top of the last ascent but one a partial view of Arequipa can be had and a free one of the valley of Tingo. This is a magnificent little valley and looks finely from the hills. As soon as the road descends into this valley it crosses the Arequipa river by a ford – and winds through the town and suburbs of Tingo Grande in a narrow Calle Jon. We stopped at this town to take a Picante and then hurried onto Arequipa arriving at about 7 P.M. & put up at the Hotel Lafayette. We were nearly exhausted with our rind and were right glad to go to bed. Arequipa is divided from the Tingo valley by a low and short range of hills round with the road winds. To enter Arequipa you again cross the river over a stone bridge however. 2d ThursdayGot up this morning very much refreshed and feeling slightly only, the effects of yesterday’s ride. Our baggage was to have been here early this morning but it has not yet appeared. We are in want of clothes having nothing but our riding suit which is hardly decent. Went round and found Sr. Harmsen at his store. He received us very kindly. Saw Sr. Raimundi who is stopping with Mr. Harmsen. He was very affable. Called to see Echigaray but he was not in, left our cards and he called on us in the afternoon. Went round with him to see his filtering reservoir. It is a very nice work and is being done cheaply though the design is an immensely expensive one. It is built of stone and is to be covered with heavy arches. The filters are mostly vertical – and will consist of material of various fineness confined in openings about 6 by 4 iron screens. Above the openings notes are left for throwing in the material after the screens are put up. The water circulates through several apartments and the filters starting near the inlet increase in the fineness of these materials the last being of sand. The work is now stopped in a half finished state for want of funds. The pipes are in about 4 feet lengths laid with lead joints. We are advised by Harmsen & Raimundi to buy mules – both for riding & cargo – but have concluded to buy 2 saddle beasts only. Went to the theatre. 3d FridayOur baggage arrived late in the afternoon. Aricso said one of his mules died on the road. We lost our tripod to the level and we refused to pay him until he produced it. He was wroth. Called on Raimundi and were introduced to the Professor of Hamsens houses – a very agreeable man. Raimundi says that the atmosphere of Arequipa is dryer than that of any place he knows and it appears to be very dry. Called twice to see Echigaray but he was not at home. Raimundi fixed Church’s barometer – clearing the mercury. Compared my Amroid with his and found it to agree exactly. 4th SaturdayArranged with Harmsen’s clerk Rienalde to buy us two mules & hire an Arcisco to guide us and take our cargo to Puno. Called to see Raimundi & the Professor. Went with Echigaray to see if we could fix the tripod to the compass so that it would answer for the level. He had no tripod that we could use. Tried to get a brass head made but found it would take too long – over a week. Ordered a wooden one made. Arcisco called for his money but didn’t get it. He felt very aggrieved. 5th SundayRaimundi & the Prof. called on us. Received an invitation to dinner at Mr. Harmsen’s. We went and had a very fine dinner in a very fine house (the best in Arequipa) filled with very fine and costly furniture. His house in one of the best that I have seen in Peru. 6th MondayTook breakfast with Echigaray in company with Raimundi, the Prof. & several others. Had an excellent breakfast. Stated at his house nearly all day. 7th TuesdayIt being post day – Sr. Reinecker could not attend to our business so we lost the day. Called on Echigaray. 8th Wednesday.We tried some mules but these were no good ones – and outrageous price were asked. Concluded to hire mules and have engaged Ramon Rosado to take us & luggage to Pescio for $100. We maintain the beasts. He is to be on hand Friday. In the evening called on Echigaray. Wife not at home. Bought provisions, bed, etc. 9th ThursdayMail day. Heard of big battle between Grant & Lee. In evening called on Sr. Harmsen. He was busy. Arequipa is laid out on the usual plan of Peruvian & I suppose Spanish cities – with a plaza on which is the Cathedral and streets crossing each other at right angles. The streets are paved with cobble stones – Acequiras in the centre – small & well made. The houses are of stone (trachytic) and most of them with stone arched roofs. An attempt is made at ornamentation – but it is badly done and the stones are very roughly cut. Harmsen has the best house in the city but is has many defects. The city lies upon both side of the river – but chiefly on the south side. The two parts are connected by a stone arched bridge with 4 or 5 arches – masonry neither good nor bad. The city is on considerable of an incline at the base of volcano. The cathedral is a building of considerable pretensions built and designed by a mechanic of the city. The front is ornamented with Corinthian columns but is flat & unpleasing to the eye. The entablature is ornamented with carved figures at each end of the steps are two Corinthian archways – very finely executed & correct in architecture except in having wooden balustrade. There are several church – in the city in an unfinished state – with elaborate stone fronts. 10th FridayMr. Harmsen called on us &gave us a letter to his house in Puno. Left Arequipa at about 2. Sr Reinecki accompanied us to the pampa. Arrived in Cangallo a distance of about 4 leagues at about 5. Had a chupe – hired a hut & sent to bed. Cangallo consists of 4 or 5 little stone huts & about as many inhabitants. I thought by a creeping sensation that came on me that the hut had other occupants besides ourselves. 11th SaturdayStarted at about 8 ½ after a plate of hot chupe. The road rise rapidly to the pass of the volcano of which one has a splendid view. The road winds up among clayey hills – which are probably the results of the former activity of the volcano. Took an observation in the pass. Arrived at Apo a distance of about 8 leagues at about 5. 12th Sunday.Didn’t get much sleep last night as a couple of Italians had to be let into our room late in the enening. Apo consists of one stone hut like those of Cangallo. After a hot chupe at 8 we started on our journey. The appearance of the country begins to change. We are now in a more modulating country. Near Apo the hills are rocky further along stratified clay – cut thoroughly numerous hamlets. The hills after a 3 leagues from Apo are covered with a short dry grass upon which numberless herds of llamas were feeding. This part of the country has probably been formed in a lake. Not a tree to be seen. Shot at some ducks and a rabbit (biscacha) with my pistol but of course without effect. The road has been very good today – very few ascents. Arrived at Pati at 3 ½ a distance of 8 leagues. Señor Raimundi caught up with us at this Tambo arriving at about 5 1/2. Had tried the day before to make the ascent of vol. but was taken with colic and did not arrive at the summit – two of the party did however, and confirmed the description of the crater given by other travelers. Crossed numerous streams or the same stream many times. Took a wash in one of them. 13th MondayStarted from Pati at about 6 ½ after a cup of “agua calienti.” Found it very cold. Soon after leaving Pati the road rises a sharp ascent onto a Pampa or sandy desert. Passed by a small pond in which were ducks and near which a flock of huanacos were feeding. Here and there trachytic hills rise up but the road as a rule lies along level pampas and the valleys of streams for some league or two from Pati then enters among trachytic hills and finally into a limestone country. The strata of the limestone district have been tilted up and twisted into all sorts of shapes by the igneous rocks. Took breakfast at a tambo at about 8 leagues from Pati – from this tambo (Cusvilla) the road begins to grow rougher – and as you near CachapascanaIt begins to be decidedly hilly. We arrived at this last place at about 5 after a very tiresome day’s ride. Cachapascana consists of two stone huts situated however in a most romantic place. On both sides of it and far below are beautiful lakes whose shores are formed by high and steep limestone hills. The tambo is on a rocky, hilly isthmus – as it were which makes two lakes out of what should be one. As at all the tambos we got chupe – but this time we had in addition – preserved beef and coffee furnished by Sr. Raimundi. At Pati – which consists of one hut only – we had chupe only – so this variation was a relief. At these tambos you are furnished either with grass or dry straw for your beasts – a chupe and a room upon the earth floor of which you spread your bed, for yourself. The nights are very cold – (the minimum there at Cachapascana showed a temp of 2 or 3 deg above zero only) and the rooms are exceedingly liberally ventilated so one needs heavy blankets. The tambo of Cusvilla is in a valley and just before arriving at it you make a rather abrupt descent – that it would be difficult to pass with a R.P. 14th Tuesday Started after a cup of tea – at about 7 ½ The road from Cachapascana winds along the side of the hills at last descends to the level of the lake by a rather abrupt descent winds along the shore of the lake to its outlet and then follows the valley of the stream which makes its outlet for some leagues. This lake empties into Titicaca. The road is good. On the road met a horrid old indian hag who begged. She would have made a good model for a statue of Meg Merriles. Met numerous herds of llamas with their loads of wood driven by Indians on foot. In some instances the Indians were spinning as they walked along. The Indians live on coca along the road and universally their lips are colored with it juice and their cheeks stuffed with the leaves. The llamas live on the dry grass formed along the road – their teeth are so peculiarly formed that they can nip the shortest grass. They have two extra incisors – the llama in many of its positions looks like a small camel – without its hump. They have a most magnificent eye. Herds of wild vicuñas and huanacos are numerous. At about 11 ½ arrived at Marravillas where we took breakfast from there we passed on to Vilgue arriving at about 5 a distance from Cachapascana of about 11 leagues. The road is good all the way. Near Vilque it passes through regular prairie land on which are fed sheep & cattle. Birds are getting numerous and of many species. Vilgue is a town but a miserable one. The houses are built of adobe. It is at this place the grand yearly fair is held; at which time several thousand people meet. The fair had been concluded about a fortnight when we arrived. The tambo of this place is the worst one on the road. Kept by a horrible old indian woman who was cooking her duty dinner in the patio over a dung fire. We sent out for food and partook of a chupe. Dry straw is the only feed for the beasts. Passed today a family travelling towards Puno. Children carried in crockery crates over the back of a mule. Near Vilgue is a hacienda. One begins to meet with haciendas for raising sheep principally 15th WednesdayStarted from Vilgue at about 7 ½. The road passes around the hill at the base of which Vilgue is situated and continues across vast prairies till it reaches the altos of Puno. I should have noted yesterday that before arriving at Vilgue you pass through a little indian town called “las huestas” From what it derives its name it would be different today for the gardens are not to be seen. Just before nearing the altos of Puno – you pass to the left of another indian town whose name I do not remember. After passing over a couple of leagues of gently undulating ground you come in sight of Lake Titicaca and when near its shore you descent abruptly by a zig zag road to Puno. I was disappointed in the view of the lake. In Puno while scouring the streets to find the store of Señor Harmsen we fell upon Mr. Squier. He took us to Señor Duiñas who gave us a room in his house. In evening made acquaintance of Sr. Thackará and others. (A beggar on all fours claimed our charity on the road). 16th ThursdayA feast day in honor of the contemplated American Union. Procession of flags headed by goddess of liberty & little girls dressed in white with red sash over shoulders & wreath around head. American flag had post of honor. Started from Municipality buildings marching through streets under arches trimmed with silver plates & spoons to plaza where we were met by Prefect. A series of speeches then took place – first one by Alcalde – giving history of European interferences in America etc – then by Prefect in reply to music marched into church & listened to a most tiresome & unintelligible service first organ – next priest – first on your feet next sitting down, next on your knees etc After an hour a half or so this tomfoolery came out onto plaza. More speeches best given by an old woman who crowned the flags – after speeches – national songs of Peru & Chile sung by girls in white & national song of Bolivia by Bolivians. Marched down to municipality building when resolutions were read to be signed by the people of Puno. Military round streets all day. In evening an illumination of the plaza which was very well done. On poles were stuck wooden triangles trimmed with evergreens and lighted by woolen walls dipped in turpentine, alcohol or some other combustible. The effect was very good. The banners carried by the procession were very rich. That of Peru especially so. Hanging pictures refers to represent Spaniards.17th FridayCalled on Prefect & delivered letter he had not much to say. Wished us to go to Ilave first. 18th SaturdayChurch sick abed. Making preparations to start for Ilave tomorrow. Got letters from Prefect. Mr. Squier started on his voyage down the lake with Dr. Raimundi in a horrid old boat. 19th Sunday At about 1 started for Chicuito – distance 4 leagues. Road principally along the shore of the bay of Puno. I cased up all kinds of waterfowls – ducks – snipe pokes – gulls etc. Also passed many herds of cattle & llamas. The cattle feed off a weed that grows in the lake – standing in the water up to their bellies when feeding. They are fat. Arrived in Chicuito a 3 ½. This is an indian town of 3 or 4 thousand people in its plaza it has a dry fountain & a sun dial. On the west side is the church a tumble down stone building with tile roof - & a huge square town. It has no façade – but is enclosed on the east & north by an arcade fence so to call it – i.e. – a high wall formed of pillars supporting arches. The wall is built of adobe & protected by a tile top. At the entrance is a grand arch of stone of some pretensions – but it is in a ruinous state. On the plaza were 15 or 20 women squatting on the stones – selling I don’t know what – as their wares were covered in a basket & they did not understand Spanish bought some oranges. South of Puno the Amaray is spoken entirely – it is said that the Indians generally understand Spanish but I met more that didn’t than did & most of those that did – very imperfectly. The houses in Chicuito are of adobe – thatched. Stopped over night at the Post House. Eating a supper of chupe & bread that are sent on to the plaza to buy. Went out & bought a soft cheese – chancaca - & some dry granadas. The town is located on the skirt of a ridge is at a considerable elevation above the lake. Chicuito has two churches both with low square towers to distinguish them from huge barns. 20th Monday.Started at 7. Had rather better mule than yesterday but it was a bad one. Arrived in Acona at about 10. This is another indian town with two churches looking like barns, except the square towers. Like Chicuito it is on the skirts of a hill – looking ready to slide off onto the plain below. The plaza is without fountain or dial – but is bounded on one side by the church with its arcade fence. A few women squatted on the plaza selling chupe etc. The hat of the Amanay Indians is peculiar – huge & inconvenient. It looks like an elongated bishops hat – with heavy coarse drapery (tiny sketch) some are elliptical in plan others diamond shaped usually the body is made of bright colors – but the drapery is universally black or of some dull color. They look very much like paper steamboats - & are finely constructed to catch & hold rain. Did not stop in Acora beyond Acora passed large herds of llamas & alpacas feeding on the pampa. Church shot a species of Gallinaso with white breast & with feathers on the legs – rings black. Saw plenty of gulls, ducks, pigeons etc. Arrived in Ilave at about 2 – delivered letter to Governor, and he offered us room & food which we accepted. Ilave is like Chicuito – a large medium town with two stone adobe churches – having square squat towers & surrounded by arcade fences. A sundial in the plaza – also a well but no fountain. The town is not furnished with water as Acora appears to be. Went down to the river & took a wash. It is much colder here than in Puno. Governor sent to Juli for the Subprefect. Cura called & said there was a good site for a bridge about a league up the river. Slept in the Governor’s reception room. He speaks the Amanay with the indians a very ugly language. It seems to be all catches & hitches but the Indians speak all on one key, whether in joy or sorrow. There are not above 20 white people in the town. All these towns are triste. Besides the town there are several little villages along the road where the Indians live to watch their flocks. 21st Tuesday.Got up and took a wash in the river very cold – ice formed on our hair when we wet it. Ice along rivers edge will bear – yet saw Indians both men & women wading through the river – who did not seem to mind the cold. Curious people. Unhospitable and churlish. Just after breakfast Sub-Prefect of Juli arrived. Took a ride up river to look at site for bridge. Mentioned by Cura – it is too far out of way. Made necessary measurements for bridge. Swaped my rifle for a horse with Governor paying 70 dollars to boot. June 22d Wednesday.After breakfast at 10 left Ilave for Puno. Arrived in Acora at 12 ½ changed cargo mule & saddle beast. Left Acora at 1 ½ arrived in Chicuito at about ¼ to 4. Left Chicuito at 4 ½ & arrived in Puno at 7. Distances according to which we paid for beasts are as follows. From Ilave to Acora 5 league (short) From Acora to Chicuito 3 leagues (long) From Chicuito to Puno 4 leagues. Near Acora are some Inca monuments built of stone. 23d Thursday.Occupied day in making out notes for Ilave bridge. Called to see Prefect but was busy. June 24th 1864 Friday –Today is a feast day – Saint John the baptist – the great day of Masons. It is also one of the more important feast days of the Catholic Church, and is made much of by the Indians. One of the plazas was decorated with 4 huge & high altars trimmed with silver plates & platus – and with looking glasses flowers etc – the altar consisted of a rude board structure covered with velvet hangings supporting a series of shelfs – on which were placed the looking glasses with gilt & silvered frames and vases & bottles containing flowers between the altars which were situated at the four corners of the plaza were evergreen arches numerous processions formed of from 8 to 12 indians each passed dancing through the streets to a most doleful monotonous music consisting of a mere repetition of a series of notes given forth by drums & a sort of flute or clarinet made of a bamboo stick. The Indians forming the procession wee most fantastically dressed in bright colors & rich gold trimmings. Each set had different dresses. One procession dancing to the music of the drums & flutes to which was added an old fiddle – some dressed in long skirts of white lace – huge shoes or clod-hoppers, a cape of rich gold trimmings – the shoes similarly trimmed& a hat surrounded by a circle of richly colored feathers radiating from a small looking glass. Most of them wore grotesque masks as did they in all the processions – some had their faces covered with handkerchiefs only and others had their faces bare. Accompanying this procession was a sort of clown dressed in tights without trimmings – but concealing his face behind a flaming mask. Whose duty it seemed to be to hover along the skirts of the procession and dance around it. The members of another procession were dressed in tight breeches with the lower part of the leg & feet bare – a close fitting jacket with gold trimmings & a theatrical hat. The music consisted of the universal drum & reed harmonicas or Pan-pipes – each performer using both instruments. The drum was hung at the side & beat with the right hand – while the pipe was held in the left. This hand produced a noise more like music than any of the rest and their dancing was more in time with the music. Accompanying this last procession were some two or three clownish individuals trailing long handkerchiefs who seems not to belong in the band itself but merely to be auxillarys as they carried no instruments and always danced in opposite directions to the others – other dresses were to be seen. One man had the lower part of his legs entirely covered with small bells. The dancing consisted to merely marching or moving round in a circle in time with the music. There was nothing like abandon or hilarity in the movements. At each altar the procession would stop & perform a dance in a circle – moving round one after the other then pass on to an arch – divide into two parts each of which would pass several turns around one of the press – then pass on to the next altar etc. From the square they would pass through the streets stopping perhaps before the door of the cathedral to perform another circular evolution. The most noticeable feature was the entire seriousness almost sorrowfulness of the performers & beholders. Not a smile to be seen even at the somewhat absurd capers of the clowns. Each procession acted entirely independent of the other; when this happened to meet no recognition was made. Each appeared oblivious of the other. This is said to have been an old methods of celebrating feasts in the time of the Incas – but is now used in the feasts of the Catholic Church – which religion has been embraced by the civilized Indians. The trimmings of feathers showed great taste in arrangement and the feathers themselves of birds from the montaña – were rich in colors & variety. The dresses although appearing as if hired from some theatre for the occasion were many of them very rich in their trimmings. One is struck with the moroseness of the indians. They have been so long persecuted by the white race having been yoked down to a worse than slavery under the Spanish domination that their spirits seem broken, and although respectful in their deportment towards the whites – they hate them with a hate that has descended from father to son through generations. This hate they do not show in any bitter outbreak – as they have been too thoroughly conquered for that but in their reticence and in their dislike to do a favor even although liberally paid. In fact they seem to care little for money resulting from labor to the whites. High wages are no inducement to them. In some sections they will refuse food to the traveler. Maintaining that they have nothing to give. Although a treble price be offered & chickens & sheep are feeding about the door. If however you lay violent hands upon that which you may wish – they instantly and almost cheerfully cook it receiving a much more moderate price then may at first have been offered. Their power of endurance is wonderful. As postilions they always go upon foot and will always be found in front whether you travel at a walk or a canter. They will thus make a journey of 8 or 10 leagues – often bearing burdens on their backs without seeming fatigue. Sometimes these postilions are old men with shriveled shanks. At least they appear old but that is equally true of the new born babe. With a little cocoa and no other food they will travel for days. Called to see the Prefect. Said he was busy with the mails & could not attend to us – until Tuesday. The boys were throwing water rather cold amusement.

Saturday 25th.Passed the day quietly – wrote a letter to Director & to Crosby. In evening received a call from Mr. Thackará & Mr. Patridge – the engineer of the streams. June 26th 1864 Sunday.Wrote a letter to Mother & one to Whitman. Took dinner & passed a very pleasant evening with Mr. Thackará. Today is market day. The plaza is filled with indian women squatted on the bare stones selling vegetables, grain chupe, a little fruit & meat. Also earthen pottery. In this department or at least near the city there is very little agriculture as the climate is too cold. Potatoes are raised in considerable abundance but are very small. Of these there are two kinds one of which is called the bitter potatoes or “papa amagra.” The other is a white species of very excellent flavor. Barley is also raised and another grain which I have never seen before called Quiñoa which has a very small seed and is used in place of rice. There is still another species raised very similar to this last called Quaniqua. Most of the lands are used for pasture and the Department is noted for its wool – both the common & alpaca – for its butter and for its cheese. The meat or at least the beef has an unpleasant flavor owing probably to the fact that the cattle fatten from the weeds of the lake. I think buckwheat & winter rye would ripen here. The hills about Puno are filled with silver mines but they are not now worked with one or two exceptions for want of capital & machinery. Extravagant stories are told about their yield in the times of the Spaniards. One man was supposed to have extracted about 50 millions. He was accused of notorious conduct by the Vice Roy and sentenced to death. He offered to pay 1000 dollars per day until his suit could be heard in Spain & an answer returned. He was executed but his silver in bars was hidden & the entrance to the mine concealed by the indians & it has never been discovered to this day although known to be near the city – his name was Salcedo. There are rich gold mines both the quartz & washings – in Carabaya – which are being worked to a slight extract. There is also plenty of iron in the Department. Puno is an adobe city with tiled & thatched roofs possessing two plazas. You enter the city from the Acequipa road – under a somewhat pretentious archway – very badly executed in stone – on either side of the archway are semicircular enclosures of small dimensions surrounded by stone walls. On the right you enter is a fountain and a moment on which is an inscription stating that it is erected in honor of the Defenders of this Department of 1842, in the year 1850 by the then Prefect. The Archway bears the date 1847. Soon after passing the gate you enter the first square on which are situated at opposite sides a church & a college. Passing still further on you enter the 2d square on which are situated the municipality buildings and the cathedral and which is the marketplace. The municipality buildings are in a shocking state and sadly need repair. The Cathedral is of stone – with an elaborate front – very well executed in stone. The interior consists simply of a nave & short transepts having neither columns or side aisles. The main altar is at the opposite end from which you enter is large, richly ornamented and rather tasteful – except in the case of small looking glasses for ornaments. The church is undergoing some repairs. New altars are being placed in the transepts & one that is nearly completed is simple tasteful, really elegant. The main altar is approached by 2 or 3 steps. The church is on the upper side of the plaza – and some 10 or 12 feet higher. Before it is a broad terrace ascended from 3 sides by a series of steps. There are no other public buildings of note. The town itself is surrounded on 3 sides by hills & on the other is the lake or bay of Puno. The streets are laid out with some regularity – are narrow – well paved & have one & sometimes 2 lines of narrow flagging stones on each side for sidewalks. Mr. Squier did not return today mor is the boat in sight. Monday 27th 1864.Wrote a letter to Delgado. Gave my U.S. letters to Mr. Thackará to post & put the rest in post office. Mr. Squier not yet returned. Tuesday 28thCalled at Prefects 4 times for letters. Was told he was sick – he was occupied – but found out afterwards that he was playing Rocunboa – Church bought mule for 180. Wednesday 29th.Got my letters of Prefect at last after waiting nearly a week. He gave no instructions whatever but seemed glad to get rid of us. Today is feast of Saint Paul. Bought a mule for $110. Occupied day in getting ready to start tomorrow. Thursday 30th.Were much delayed on account of boy we have hired who could not settle with Contendor & started at about 3 and travelled over a hilly, rocky road to Pancocolla a distance of a short 3 leagues. Governor not at home. Pancocolla is a dirty little indian town with a dilapidated ill built church. The only light to be seen in the town was ours. It is a post station on one of the roads to Cuzco – but not to Pusi. Friday July 1st 1864.Was awakened in the night by the barking of dogs. There must be 4 dogs to each inhabitant and they all bark the whole night through. The Gov. had not returned from the marriage and we were delayed until 10 in getting together beasts & postilions. These will not serve – no matter how much you offer without order from the Gov. unless on a post road. The road to Pusi is chiefly over a pampa but the last two leagues pass over a range of limestone hills. Arrived in Pusi at about 6. Governor not at home but met the Sub Prefect of Huancané on his way to Puno. He knew of our coming and had room ready. Was very hospitable & appeared interested in our commission. Governor’s letters to the Gov. of Huancané. Pusi is more of a town than Puncoclla. It has a plaza with a sun dial – bounded on one side by a dilapidated church, with the universal square tower filled with bells. Its situation is romantic – at the foot of a range of sandstone hills (the strata of which is almost vertical & sharply defined) near the edge of the lake – which however at this point is a mere marsh. Water birds are numerous. We passed on the road – cattle, sheep & hogs in abundance, but met no arisros. At one side of the plaza are the ruins or the foundations rather of a very old church with the burying vaults still in good preservation. The Sub Prefect thought they were built by the Incas but the style & the absence of other ruins denote them to have been of Spanish origins. Pusi is the province of Huancané. There are some 5 or 6 white people in the town & no more. Not being a post we had difficulty in getting beasts with Aparejos, but at last by borrowing if the Gov. & of the cura we were fitted out. Was sick with tercianas. Saturday July 2d.Took breakfast with Sub Prefect. Got started for Huancané at 11. The road lies entirely over a prairie or pampa except the last five hundred feet at the entrance of Huancané. This pampa in times of the floods is covered with water. Passed many herds of cattle – hogs, sheep, etc – and saw considerable signs of cultivation. We encountered more fowls today than ever before and enjoyed ourselves in shooting them. Church shot a large goose with his pistol. I shot a goose and a bird which is about the size & looks much like the flamingo – called here the pariquana. Its feathers are of a beautiful rose color and it is hunch backed in the bill as the boy said. Crossed river Ranŭs in balsas though my horse would jump overboard. Had much trouble with the mules – two ran away and spilled their cargo. Arrived in Huancané at about 6. We left Anquipa. The Gov. furnished us with rooms & food. Am feeling somewhat better – but very low. Sunday July 3d.Today we use as a day of rest. Took a look at the twon which is the capital of the province. It is nestled down in a little valley surrounded on all sides by hills. The valley is well supplied with water & vegetation springs etc. in all parts. The entrance to the valley is through a low pass cut in the sandstone. The town is mostly populated by Indians then being only 15 or 20 white people. The main street is paved with large flat stones. The houses are of adobe thatched with reeds or tortora. Tiles are very little used although this place supplies Puno with them. There were two churchs both on the plaza but one has lately been destroyed by fire. It is now rebuilding. In the town are very fine baths – supplied by springs of warm water – temp. 68 Fah. The water is said to contain magnesia – the same water is drunk by the population. Attended Mass or Misa. The church was filled with Indians all kneeling on the hard brick floor – without mats or even a hankerchief. They come in just as they are dressed for the plaza the women with their babies tied to their backs. The babies are apt to take audible part in the ceremony. The church is a rude structure of adobe – with slant roof & square tower. It does not claim any architectural features. The inside is one long parallelogram – with a gallery over the entrance containing a wheezy little organ, that frequently wants for breath and always for time and that when supplied with air whistles of its own accord through various cracks. The main altar occupies the whole end of the building and is covered with dirty stained gilding. The walls are covered with side altars & pictures of various sizes that were never intended for criticism. After Mass took a ride out to look at the springs from which they wish to bring water to the city. I think they are lower than the town. The Plaza was filled with Indians selling – wool hats – saw hide halters – a sweet reed – grain – meat & vegetables. There is made near here a rude felt hat – which is sold at a cheaper rate per pound than the raw wool. The products of this province are cattle, sheep, hogs, barley, wheat, corn, potatoes and quiñoa. Sheep are worth from 0.75 to1.50 – castrated sheep of 3 years value 2.50. A sheep will give about 10 lbs of wool each year which is selling here now at 12 cts per lb. Large hogs are worth about 4.00 Cows 15.00 a pair of oxen sometimes sell as high as 60.00. Alpacas are worth from 5.00 to 7.00 but they are scarce and not sold now. They give about 12 lbs of wool every 3 years which is selling at 0.50 per lb. There are wild vicuñas in the province, they are not domesticated but hunted. The wool was formerly sold at 1.00 per lb but now it is scarce & values more. Llamas are worth from 3 to 4.00. There are plenty of fish in the streams - along the lake the Indians are fishermen. The most prized fish are the Suche and Ispe – the former will weigh 3 or 4 lbs. Through Huancané passes the hafie of Bolivia and a part of Criabaya. Monday July 4th.Got up and took a bath. The water was pretty comfortable – but the atmosphere being at or below freezing I nearly died in dressing being obliges to stand of the cold flagging to do so. My feet had become nearly useless. After breakfast rode out to the river Ramis to take data for bridge & also to river Putina for same purpose. Shot various water fowls of species that I do not know. My horse stumbled badly – am afraid he will not serve to cross the mountains to Lima. Tuesday July 5th.Levelled part way to springs at S.E. of town before breakfast, and finished afterwards. Told Gov. when we started from house after breakfast that should arrive at the springs in an hour and a half as he expressed a desire to meet us there. We were there at the appointed time & wasted some little while but as he did not make his appearance we went back to the house found his horse just being saddled and he mounted to start for the place nearly 3 hours after breakfast instead of 1 ½. He seemed quite vexed that we had got back and still more so to hear that the spring was lower than the plaza by 31 feet. Took notes necessary to form project for bringing the water of the baths to the plaza. At dusk was much surprised and very much angered to receive an insulting letter from the Gov. as Sub Prefect Accidental in which he accused me to having slighted my work, or not complying with my orders and of wasting the Govmt money etc and that which he said he took it upon himself as competent authority to detain me and oblige me to do certain works that he specified. If I did not comply – the matter was to be carried before Congress etc The letter was considered of such importance that it was to be brought by two citizens. I replied verbally – that I received orders from no one except the Director of Public Works and that I already had my instructions from him and that I had already more than complied with them. Gave the old Gov. blowing up, told him the letter was nothing more than an insult, that I did not come here to learn my duties etc. He said the letter only asked for my data – told him that the data belonged to me and that I was not compelled to give them to him still I had intended doing so and would. He did not seem to know what was in the letter – it was written by somebody else – probably the judge. Wrote him a reply at his own dictation…. Wednesday July 6thAlthough I spoke about having beasts for today last Sunday – and that we wished them early – it was 11 o’clock before they were brought and it was after 12 before we got started. No wonder the Gov. cannot imagine we have taken data for 2 bridges and water works – in 2 days – when it takes him 3 ½ to have beasts ready. The old fellow managed to charge me double, however, or at the rate 1 ½ reales per mile – the postilion says the usual charge ½ real per league. The road for Putina passes up the valley of the Putina or Huancané never following its bank nearly all the way. The valley is narrow being enclosed on either side by a high range of hills – whose strata dip away from the valley. The road crosses the river at a point about half way to Putina. The distance is 8 leagues. Shot a duck and a curious waterfowl with long crooked bill and a tuft on his head. Arrived in Putina at about 6 1/2. Gov. not at home at Finca. Could get no one to cook us a supper – no meat in town. Somebody hunted us up a room. Thursday July 7thCold as Greenland when we got up. Could get no breakfast cooked. A miserable town where no-body eats anything. It is a little indian hole with thatched adobe huts, irregular streets that however are named. It is very picturesquely situated at the foot of a steep rugged hill – on the bank of the river which here is narrow and enclosed by grassy banks. Opposite the town on the other bank rises up another steep snarly hill – this crowding the town & river in between. Two lofty peaks that add much to the effect of its situation. It has a stone church – shoes two towers & dome are built of well-cut stone and which contains a wheezy organ. It is the only building in town that looks as if it was built. Plenty of birds that make the place sound lively. At the base of the hill close to the town are hot springs (temp 123° Fah) that are noted for their medicinal effects. Probably of magnesium. Gov. came at about 12 went out and took data for bridge. Gov. wants pila more than bridge. Friday July 8thAlthough the Gov. has had a day to get our beasts ready and although we asked for them early – yet it was 12 o’clock before they arrived and then only one had apparejo the rest being furnished with sheep skins to make matters worse – he wished to recover $2 apiece for the beasts when the regular charge is only 50 cts. I paid him at the rate of $1.50 Are all the Govs here thiefs? We did not get started until 1 ½ P.M. The road from Putina to Asangaro passes a high long tiresome ascent over which one cannot travel at the rate of a league per hour. On the summit a smart little snow squall overtook us – when about half way down on the other side – night came on and we still had 3 or 4 hours of road before us. We concluded to sleep on the road and for that purpose drew up at a little indian hut but in preference to sleeping inside, Church and I made up our beds in the open air. Ventilation was abundant and the light would not be put out until its own time. Still – although everything was freezing about us, our chamber was not near so bad as it might have been. At the summit the bar. Read 0.44 with the ther. at about 36°. At the right of road saw a small lake & at the highest point herds of vicuñas. Church shot rabbit or “biscucha.” Saturday July 9thGot up early and started on our journey – slept very well. The rest of the road to Asangaro was over pampa. Arrived at about 10 ½. Went to Sub Prefects – said he had not been informed of our coming by Prefect. Still would treat us all the same. Gave us a room in his house meals etc. On road Church shot several ducks. In afternoon took measurements for bridge. Am afraid we are going to have a long job of the water question here as in Putina. Speak Quechna while in Huancané & neighboring parts of Bolivia – speak Amará. Here do not grown – corn or wheat. The town is one of 5 or 6 thousand indian souls. It is irregularly laid out with paved streets & adobe thatched or tiled roofs. It is noted for a billiard room which is really a credit to the place and for its church. This edifice which is very old is not imposing for its exterior – but I have not entered a church in Peru that was so richly luxuriously decorated with paintings & gildings as this. The pictures were of enormous size with exceedingly rich frames. The altars were also richly decorated. The town is high and among its bells contains one very fine deep toned one. The town is situated at the base of the hill on the bank of the river. Neither it nor its situation is repulsive – as viewed from a distance. Sunday July 10th 1864We were to take an early start to visit the springs – but as usual it was nearly mid- day before the horses were saddled. We rode out about 3 leagues to the north of the town to a beautiful spring – clear as a crystal that gives an abundant supply of water. About a league of acequia is already made being a mere trench in the ground. The end of this acequia we commenced our levelling – levelled one mile, and returned to a late dinner. Found some difficulty in marking our stations there being no stakes or wood to made them of. Left a small piece of paper under a stone at each station. Sub Prefect went with us and was much vexed that the Gov or anybody else did not accompany us. Says they do not deserve public works. Monday July 11thWent out at 7 to work. Levelled all day – doing just a league. Was obliged to drop the grade of the acequia 7 feet – to avoid much length of embankment. Returned late to dinner. Gov. was with us – do not think he will be able to preserve our stations though I have urged upon him the proper way of doing so. He is too lazy to take trouble enough to make them permanent. Tuesday July 12thOut to work on the acequia again early. Made nearly a league today – but returned early. Had a little hailstone in the afternoon. Breakfast of boiled eggs – hot milk, bread butted at an indian hut. When inquiring for milk was told “no lay” but upon search several pots appeared. How these indians lie! Wednesday July 13thFinished the acequia business at about 1 and in afternoon made ready to start tomorrow. Gave Sub Prefect my notes etc. He wrote me letters to Gov. of San Anton Asillo & Ayaviri. Urged upon Gov. neccessity of having beasts early tomorrow. Thursday July 14thEarly in morning began to be evident that we should be delayed for want of beasts. No Apparyos on hand. Alcalde indisposed to stir himself etc. Gov. made his appearance about 10. Gave him dressing down. Got Cicillo started with 3 cargo beasts for Ayaviri at about 11 – and we got started for San Anton at about 12. The guide that Gov. gave us did not know the way – so we went wandering about through the fields and did not arrive in San Anton until after sundown. The road follows up the Azángaro river. San Anton being situated upon that river. Distance about 10 leagues over pampa. Was amused at the results of our enquires of the Indians in regard to dist. – one gave a dist. As 5 leagues that another gave as 16 – the real dist. Was about 10. Nothing on road to see – but sheep & indian huts. We did pass one little cluster of houses that were actually surrounded by trees. Gov. received us and gave us a room in his establishment – also a hot dinner. Friday July 15Got up early and took data for bridge at 2 sites. San Anton is a little indian town of 1500 or 2000 inhabitants has a nice and very fairly built stone church, Is squatted down in a narrow valley bordered by high hills. Products the same as at all other parts of Puno we have visited except here there are no Alpacas. There are also silver & copper mines – not now worked in the neighborhood. Started for Asillo at about 11. The road passes from one valley into another over low passes in the hills. Shot goose – ducks etc. arrived at Asillo at about 3. Gov. seemed indisposed to receive – actually anxious to get rid of us. He had been notified the day before by the Sub Prefect that we were coming and been ordered to wait for us at the site of the bridge and have a beast ready for us to pass on. When we arrived we found we had passed the site of the bridge a league back that no beast was ready – in fact we met the Alcalde just starting out for them and that even no room was ready. I asked the Gov. if he would give us a room – said he did not know where to find one as Asillo was a town of mines - but was hunting for one now. Asked him for a beast – said there were none although he had been hunting for them all day. Asked him if he did not know we were coming about the bridge. “No – yes – knew we were coming about some bridge but whether this or that of Azángaro – did not know. In the meanwhile the beasts stood saddled and with cargo in patio. He so evidently wished to get rid of us – having even told us several lies in order that we might start that I determined – especially as it was of little use to let the bridge slip – and pass on. Asked him if he could not send our guide who had come from San Anton – and his beasts with him – he jumped at the word and even offered the man double pay – without my consent. I never was more literally cold shouldered out of a place in my life. Yet when we had got fairly out of town – he began complaining to the boy that we had passed on without given him or the town any attention – that we had acted very impolitely – etc etc - in real Spanish fashion. Boy told him that if he had only shown a little civility we whould have stopped. Went about 2/3 ½ leagues and put at an hacienda for the night going to bed without any dinner. Although the owner of the hacienda was at home. Saturday July 16thGot up at 7 and started on our journey. Travelled through a thick mist over a level road to Ayaviri where we arrived on season to breakfast. Cicillo had got then all safe and the Gov. had delayed going to Pucasa on our account – Found the Gov. a young and pleasant man. Went out and took measurements for a bridge – my orders do not say anything about a bridge for Ayaviri – but do for El Rio Casca. Nobody knows this river but supposes that the Ayaviri river is meant. Went out to look at the water source. Sunday July 17th 1864Went out and took data for water supply – occupied us until about 12. Ayaviri is a straggling indian town with a few white people. Without having a very large collection of houses it covers a considerable space. Its church is a stone structure and well built, with one of the finest facades that I have seen in the country. It is situated on the up side of a large even plaza and has for a background – moderately tall hills – that add much to the general view. The church is old and probably built by the Jesuits as I mistrust have been all the fine churchs of the interior. Ayaviri is surrounded by high hills and in its situation is said to resemble Cuzco. It is near the banks of the Ayaviri river. Monday July 18thGot up early to make an early start but it was late before the beasts came – however we arrived in Sta Rosa at an early hour the road being chiefly over pampa. At this town they were celebrating the feast of Nuestra Señora del Carmen. The plaza was decorated with flags & altars and a procession headed by the priests was filing round the plaza. The posthouse is a very fair establishment of its kind – but the postman was a big bellied pompous little devil in a state of semi inebriatedness, with whom it was almost impossible to talk. Sta. Rosa is situated at the base of a snow mountain which is visible for a long distance in all directions. There is nothing attractive about the place – unless it be its situation. The houses are half of them – mere ruins – situated at long intervals and surrounded by straggling corrals with tumble down walls. The church is a very magnificent affair. This is the last town in Puno on the road to Cuzco. Found that it would take us 2 days to go and return from Nuñoa on account of the cuesta – altho’ the dist. Is but 5 leg. As it is not a post town – and as we have no letters to the Gov. concluded not to go to the place and the risk of finding the Gov. at his Finca or somewhere else. Especially as the traffic through the place is said to be slight & local. Have pushed ourselves enough & endured enough for want of letters. Thursday July 19Got started for Aqua Caliente at a decently early hour – but had beasts that had been to Ayaviri & back the day before. They were too tired to travel and delayed us much. The natives kept up a continual howling all last night – in continuance of the feast. Did not arrive in Agua Caliente until about 6 altho’ it is but 7 leg. from Sta Rosa & a fair road. We had intended to pass on to the next town, but it was too late, especially as the road was bad and a storm threatening. We were strongly urged to pass on however by the fact that at Agua Caliente there is but one house – the post and that was occupied by soldiers passing from Sta. Rosa to Cuzco. There is great moving of troops in the interior just now on account of the Spanish troubles. Volunteers are being made at a rapid rate and the army swelling to untold numbers to combat 3 ships. We were obliged to sleep in a little out building without a door – evidently used as a chapel since it had a rough adobe altar & a cross. It gave us just room to spread 2 beds by piling all the luggage upon the altar. The wind blew strong – a smart little snow storm came on & it began to grow fiercely cold. We barricaded the doorway with a shawl and trunks and made out to pass a decent night. Agua Caliente is in a narrow ravine bordered by high steep rugged hills. It takes its name from springs of hot water that have a temperature of 102 deg. Fah. Soldier sentinels kept up a search nearly all night – one soldier ran away. We are now in Cuzco. Wednesday July 20th (page) 89 Made a pretty early start of it intending to make a journey of some 13 leagues. Took a wash in the hot springs. The road passes down a pretty narrow valley or ravine by the side of a small stream. Near Agua Caliente the scenery is more like what one would expect to find in a mountain region than any we have yet seen still it is quite tame. Some of the hills – impress one – by their height and the cattle feeding on their sides look small and as if pinned on. The road at first was somewhat strong arrived at about 2 in Licuani a dist. Of 5 leg. intending to pass on – but found we could get no beasts. Met Gov. in street – told him we had come to see about bridge – said he did not need one. It seems as if we were to be delayed in every town we enter. Licuani is large or long indian town with a considerable number of white people and a profusion of liquor shops. It appears to be a place of more resources than any since Puno. Here they are still keeping up the feast of Carmen. Today is a day of music & dancing and also of drinking. There seem to be several bands in town consisting of 3 or 4 clarinets and as many drums. The music is peculiarly quite different from that of the Negroes of the Coast – all monotonous being a repetition of 3 or 4 lines – that differ from each other perhaps only in a note or two and always end in a drawling note. The climate is growing slightly warmer. Eat a big dinner & could hardly breathe for a long while after. Thursday July 21st (page) 91The postman agreed to have us beasts at 6 o’clock – but none came, and we were told that there were none for us as the troops had taken them all. Called upon the Gov. to prove ourselfs (i.e.) engineers –after he understood the case be begged to be excused for not having attended to us yesterday – he evidently took us for travelling jewelers. Measured site of bridge. It is amusing the kind of information one gets from officials. The gov. says that in the rainy season the water rises 4 estados or 24 feet. Now it is evident that it rises 3 or 4 feet at the most – such is the kind of information that we are compelled to relie upon for data for public works. One set of troops passed on this morning – and another entered from Ariguipa way – there is still another set – one day behind this. We seem beset with circumstances to cause delay as it is assumed that the soldiers must be attended to first. Had quite a fight with postman to get beasts altho’ the Gov. had ordered them but at last they were forthcoming so that we got started at about 5 P.M. reached Cacha at dark, having measured the site of a bridge on the way. Found here a nice post house – the best we have been in and yet we were told that at this place we would have miserable accommodations. As we left Licuani, an officer handed us a letter from Squier in which he says he is one day behind us and asks us to wait for him in Cacha. Friday July 22d (page) 93We concluded to stop in Cacha today to wait for Mr. Squier and to take some measurements at the indian temple of Viracocha situated about a league beyond this town as he would probably want. Went out to temple – found it very much destroyed – there remaining nothing but a part of the centre wall a little of one of the end walls and a single pillar. The rest had been pulled down to procure the stones for building bridges etc. The foundation of the walls are of stone beautifully cut and filled together with great precision – in irregular shapes. The temple was about 300 feet long by 70 wide – with a centre wall down the whole length – this dividing the building into two long rooms each about 300 feet by 35 down the centre of each of which was originally a row of columns with about 25 feet intervals and 5 ½ feet diameter thus (small drawing) The walls are 6 feet thick. Surrounding the temple was a large indian town built of stone in a part of which the houses were all circular in form and tangent one to another along line of streets. Mr. Squier with Harvey came up early in day and we went to temple again. Cacha is like all the rest of the towns along the road. The Gov. is also the Maestro de Postas. We had nice room and were very comfortable. The temple and indian town are situated on hills of lava – which look rough enough: the old crater is near at hand.

Saturday July 23d (page) 95 Sent the luggage on ahead to Chicacupe. We went to the Viracocha temple and finished the measurements arriving in Chicacupe at about sunset where we put up at the tambo or Post rather. Mr. Sisboy got us up a good dinner of mutton – eggs – chipute. While we were eating SubPrefect and Gov. came in taking us for Photographers. Mr. S. was introduced as U.S. Minister and they were very civil. In evening went round and called on Gov. found him living in a very comfortable house fitted up in Italian style. He is a rich man. His brother in law a young itallio-swiss – made himself very agreeable and showed us many attentions. Chicacupe is on the right bank of the river & looks just like all the rest of the towns we have passed. On the road we stopped at Tinta another large indian town- to examine the bridge. The bridge seems to be in decent repair. It is a small thing of two arches built in a horribly irregular manner. Called on Gov. who showed us a picture in the church representing the performance of a miracle by Nuestra Señora --- ---. The picture represents the town of Tinta & its surrounding hills – and at the right hand the execution of the followers – of the last Inca – who endeavored to face his country from the Spanish invaders & who so near succeeded. His followers to the number of some 200 I think where shot in Tinta. Near the centre of the picture is an open space in which is represented by resurrection of one of these followers after having been buried 3 days. An explanation at the side states that he was completely restored except that he remained with the hole in his head. He lived 12 years after and died on the anniversary of the same day on which he was brought to life. The picture was without frame and a most terrible painting. The homes looked like childrens block playhouses and the people were short and squat and if not represented as upright. Might have been taken for any other animal as well. The costumes were simply absurd. Also examined bridge at Combupata. This bridge is a very creditable structure built in 1854 and did not seem to be out of repair but on account of absence of Gov. we were unable to learn what was wanted. Sunday July 24thSent baggage on to Quiquihani to the Gov.s as the young Swiss had given us letters to him. Took breakfast with Gov. of Chicacupe and a very good breakfast it was. On road near Quiquihani we passed through the ruins of an old Inca town. On the side hills were several square chulpas or tombs. They were from 8 to 14 feet square in plan – 8 to 12 feet high, with a small opening on one side. In several of them were skeletons & Mr. S. captured the heads. They were built of stone. While examining these ruins it began to rain quite hard and before we reached Quiquihani we were well wet. The name of the indian town is Colcea. The road today has been much worse than usual winding along the side with several small but steep and stoney ascents & descents. Gov. received us pleasantly and gave us a dinner. The town is very much like all the others – its situation however is good – and its streets regular and comparatively clean. Its church has lost a part of its roof. Monday July 25thThe bridge of Quiquihani being threatened with destruction by the undermining action of the swift current and for want of proper foundation we took the necessary data for its repair. It is a very well built bridge of 3 arcs each about 42 feet span. The stone were brought 6 leagues. On top of a hill near the town we saw indian ruins & Mr. S. concluded to give them a visit although the ascent was some 1000 feet and sharp work. Especially as we were assured they were remains of large structures. The first proved to be a modern chapel with its altar & cross and the others – merely the ruins of the ordinary Inca house. We were somewhat wroth at the poor reward we received for our exertion – but we were astounded when our guide who had forced himself upon us – requested the modest sum of an ounze ($17) for his pay. He had been with us about an hour & a half. We paid however 25 cts and told him to go where Christians do not. Took breakfast with Gov. and started on our way. The road crosses the river to the left side & soon ascends high up the hill side. The road is good though unnecessarily high. We reached Urcos at about 4 and took the measurements of the bridge at that place. This was a very well built bridge of 2 arcs but for want of proper foundation to the pier it has fallen. At Urcas we leave the stream we have been following since Agua Caliente & turn to the left. Near Urcos is a little pond some distance below the road which is quite picturesque and appears to have no outlet. Just beyond this pond is another town the same of which has escaped my memory. We reached Andahuaylilas after sundown. Mr. S & Harvey had gone on before and had secured rooms through the kindness of the Gov’s wife – the Gov. not being at home. Tuesday July 26thStarted early without breakfast leaving the luggage to follow after in order to visit indian ruins about a league on the road. In passing up a narrow valley enclosed by steep hills on each side we came across a high wall extending from hill to hill – with an opening of 31 feet through which the road passes. The wall in section is of this general shape (small drawing). The faces of the section where the road passes are lined with finely dressed masonry in large blocks and with good bond. In fact at reentering angles – the stones or every alternate stone is cut with an angle so that is bonds with both tongs (small drawing). This evidently was used as a barrier for defense – and not as the people all state – as an aqueduct. The opening of 31 feet always existed evidently as its sides are faced with out stone; and the Incas apparently were unacquainted with the method of forming arches properly so called; in some instances they spanned or covered small openings – with stones – by offsetting one over the other – like steps as seen in some dome shaped roofs; but the use of stones in the form of roussoirs seems to have been unknown to them and in such use only could an opening of such magnitude have been spanned. This alone is sufficient proof that this structure never was built for an aqueduct – but its construction - the want of water conduits leading to or from it – its position squeezed in between steep hills etc are confirmatory. In fact to account for its having been so used, the following story is told and generally believed by the people of Cuzco & vicinity. There existed a very beautiful Inca maiden with whom two Inca princes were desperately in love. She was unable to choose between them but decided the matter by agreeing to marry the one that would make the water of the lake below ascend to the town. One of the princes by building a long tortuous acequia carrying it a great distance down the valley until he reached the tops of the hills and then returning succeeded and met with his reward. This structure was part of his aqueduct. In explanation of the story it should be stated that on the Cuzco side of the fortress or barrier there are the remains of a large indian town (which was a walled city) and some hundred feet below in a valley, picturesquely situated is a small lake. It is a common belief even by the best educated people in this part of the country that the indians had acequias that led water up hill and several times I have had the manner in which they were constructed described to me. The idea seems to be that by building a crooked acequia the water is deceived into running up hill. From this point we proceeded to one pesa where we were to change mules. We found the Maestro de Postas drunk and obstinate. He had beasts but no postilion – could do nothing for us – we must stop till next day etc. Got into high words. Searched for Gov. not at home – then for Sub Prefect, who we found had gone some leagues to his hacienda then for Lieut. Gov. who said he could not aid us (liar) went back to posthouse and found a couple of officers who acquaintance I had made on the road. They ordered the Maestro to furnish us with beasts & we at last found a boy to serve as postilion – by going him treble pay. Left money with our boy to pay for beasts and started on – had got but little way – where he came galloping after us – saying that the Maestro demanded more. Gave him the sum. When we got into Cuzco – we went wandering around the streets to find the houses to which we had letters – but nobody was at home – even the Prefect. At last we found Col. Francisco Vargas – to whose brother Mr. S. had many letters – he received us kindly although we were a rather formidable party, giving us an excellent dinner & rooms. Our cargo did not arrive having probably been detained by the drunken Maestro. In entering Cuzco you pass through the more tumble down forsaken looking towns of San Sebastian & San Geronimo – in the near neighborhood. Wednesday July 27When we awoke found it raining quite hard and very cold, it continued cold, rainy & disagreeable throughout the whole day – our host says – that such weather has never seen here before at this season of the year. Early in the morning the boy made his appearance with the bed alone, quite drenched and said that the Maestro would not give him beasts but that he had insisted upon having one to bring in the bed and after considerable trouble & quite near the city 4 men rode up to him & demanded him to stop – he tried to run away but the mule fell, they came up and robbed him of his bridle & all his money (about 15$) and then reached for the cargo – but the mule having been frightened ran on ahead and got into the town. The boy not being able to find us slept in the streets. In afternoon in company with Mr. S. we called on the Prefect. He was very cordial & received us with much kindness and assurance of his regret for his absence of last night etc. Said he had been expecting us so long that he had nearly given up hopes of our coming. He is a young man with a very intelligent face and pleasing manners. He has travelled in Europe. Tomorrow being independence day he appointed a business interview with us for the 29th. Col. gave us today 3 empty rooms, where we shall be most comfortably located. Thursday July 28thIndependence day of Peru but it is so rainy there has been but comparatively little celebration. Early in the morning we were awakened by the soldiers and band in the Plaza onto which our rooms open. The band played & children sang the national hymn, but they were soon driven home by the rain – all the morning it rained so hard that nothing was done. In the afternoon there were intervals of sun – during which the troops were out and also processions of students and of officials filed about the streets and paid a visit to the Prefectura but even then they carried umbrellas that is the students & officials not the troops. They all marched to the cathedral and listened to la misa de Gloria. After dinner we were called out to take part in a procession of republican flags. Mr. S. bore the Peruvian – Church the Bolivian – Harvey the Chilian and I the Mexican – the Col. bearing the U.S. The procession was headed by the goddess of liberty on wheels. When we reached the street door a man pas perched up on the wheels addressing the crowd. The Col. proposed 3 cheers for North America (i.e. United States) but the orator immediately commenced a tirade against that country. The Col. grabbed the wheel and shook him down before he had uttered many words and a fight ensued, the man rushing up and striking the Col. in the breast. Every officer present drew his sword and the whole crowd rushed upon the offender. It looked as if he would be badly used as he apparently had no partisans. They say that after we went away – that those that remained jammed his teeth down his throat and cut him badly with their swords. We marched to the Plaza alameda – the crowd cheering for U.S. Chile Mexico & Peru. At the Alemeda several friendly speeches were made – in which the dependence of S. A. upon U.S. was repeatedly stated. Mr. S. also made a short speech in explanation of our course in regard to the Lobos Islands – for which the Peruvian’s bear as a spite after which we marched back to the house. In evening took tea with the Prefect after having witnessed a bad attempt at fire works. At the Prefects we met many gentlemen. (Inside back cover)Cerea de Paneocollo – Ilpa – bridge “ “ Caracota, Suches “Between Puri & Huan – Ramis “ “ “ “ Huancani “ The first 2 are on road between Huancani & Puno – por Tacnac/ Moquequa ----- The last 2 estan su el cannon de Bolara a’ Arequipa----Mucha Trapiconde Ascisos --- School Huancane 30 Girls --- 30 Boys