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Silk Ribbon Textile Sample Book

 Collection
Identifier: SC MS 0489

Scope and Contents

The collection is a lined paper tablet with pasted 135 silk ribbon samples of different colors, textures, and sizes. According to the bookseller, this was done by Martha Miller Bander. The tablet's cover was signed by Martha's husband, "Edwin H. Bander. 513 Pike St. South Allentown, Pa." above tablet printing of EMPORIA. Some of the ribbons have faint pencil notations for yardage glued on 26 pages of the tablet. There is also an inserted page with measurements.

Description

Detailed description of each page available upon request.

Dates

  • Creation: circa 1900s

Creator

Conditions Governing Access

Access Restrictions: Collection housed remotely. Users need to contact 24 hours in advance.

Access

Collection is open for research.

Access

Collection housed remotely. Users need to contact 24 hours in advance.

Copyright notice

Please inquire about copyright information.

Biographical / Historical Note

According to the book seller, Martha (nee Miller) Bander was the creator of this ribbon sample book. She was from Emmaus (Emaus), Pennsylvania. She married Edwin H. Bander in 1907, listing her occupation as seamstress on their marriage certificate. He was listed as a hot house planter. In 1912 Martha Bander was listed as a chaplain and patriotic instructor with the Ladies’ Auxiliary of the Col. Tilghman H. Good Camp 208, S of V, a civic organization celebrating their second anniversary of formation according to a 1918 article in the Morning Call. Her husband Edwin was listed as a charter member of the group.

As early as the 1750s, among the Moravian community in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, was a dominant industry. Silk worm cocoons were grown in the attic of the Brethren's House. The silk industry flourished in the Lehigh Valley after the Civil War. Access to water, power (coal), railroads and nonunion labor that attracted the silk industry from Paterson, New Jersey to the Lehigh Valley. In 1880 a group of Allentown businessmen including Col. T. H. Good persuaded the Phoenix Manufacturing Co. in Paterson, New Jersey looking to relocate to build a silk mill in Allentown. This first silk mill in the Lehigh Valley opened in 1881 as the Adelaide Silk Mill. In 1886 the Bethlehem Silk Mill as the first silk mill in Bethlehem [closed in 1953] came to Goepp Street in North Bethlehem [renovated by Moravian University used as dorms] and the Lehigh Valley Silk Mill [originally named Lipps and Sutton, now utilized as the Municipal Building for Fountain Hill borough] in South Bethlehem opened shortly thereafter. However, it was the Adelaide Silk Mill that became the cornerstone of the area’s burgeoning silk industry following the Panic of 1873 in the iron and steel industry and a catalyst for the Lehigh Valley’s silk industry. By 1900 there were 23 silk mills operating in the Lehigh Valley surpassing Paterson, New Jersey as the world’s premier silk manufacturing location. Some of the mills made the silk thread and some wove fabric and narrow fabric and ribbon.

Women’s fashion in the American Gilded Age or British Victorian Age dictated the use of ribbon. Ribbon was touted as the conscientious choice in millinery trimmings over bird feathers. There was an overwhelming selection of ribbon styles to choose from.

Extent

1 volume (1 booklet) ; 25.5 x 20.5 x 1 cm.

Language of Materials

English

Abstract

This notebook is a 135-silk ribbon collection assembled by an Allentown, Pennsylvania seamstress and milliner named Martha Miller Bander. It was likely made at the beginning of the twentieth century. The ribbons are a range of size, color, and texture.

Acquisition Information

Material was acquired by purchase from Ian Brabner, Rare Americana July 23, 2025.

References

The Morning Call. “The Col. T. H. Good Camp No. 208 Ladies’ Auxiliary Celebrate Their Second Anniversary.” February 29, 1912.

Emmaus Historical Society. “The Silk Mills of Emaus, Their History and Heritage.” Lecture by Jeanne Harakal, September 17, 2025.

Fox, Martha Capwell. “The Lehigh Valley’s Historical Silk Industry.” Interview by John Pearce. WDIY 88.1 Lehigh Valley Public Radio, August 26, 2022.

Hall, Elizabeth. “If Looms Could Speak: The Story of Pennsylvania’s Silk Industry.” Pennsylvania Heritage 32, no. 3 (2006): 26–29.

Mey, Andree. “History of Silk in the Lehigh Valley.” Lehigh County Historical Society, 1998. Cited in The Morning Call.

“Abandoned Textile Mill in Bethlehem, PA [Bethlehem Silk Mill, Goepp Street].” Historic Structures. Accessed 2023. https://www.historic-structure.com/bethlehem.

Status
Completed
Author
Eleanor Nothelfer
Date
2025-09-16
Description rules
Dacs
Language of description
English
Script of description
Latin
Sponsor
Lehigh University Library and Technology Services.

Revision Statements

  • 2026-03-04: Finding aid revised by Lila Goldenberg

Repository Details

Part of the Lehigh University Special Collections Repository

Contact:
Lehigh University
Linderman Library
30 Library Drive
Bethlehem PA 18045 USA
610-758-4506
610-758-6091 (Fax)